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LES HALLES
This is very much an upand-coming district, developing round the ultramodern Forum des Halles and rapidly regaining the popularity it lost as a result of the departure of the colourful but obsolete food market that gave the area its name (halles means covered market). Combined with that of Beaubourg nearby, its renovation, undertaken during the 1970s, has proved a commercial success.
Tradition versus modernisation
There was a great deal of controversy in Paris about the destruction of the
19th-century Pavilions Baltard, which housed the old market, for which Parisians suddenly discovered a deep attachment. Firmly
rooted traditions were being threatened, they
felt, and would be lost forever in the pursuit of improbable benefits. However, the planners won and work went ahead.
the 'belly of Paris' was the evocative name given to the area in the 19th century by the novelist Emile Zola. At that time, it had been the main food supply centre of the city for centuries, growing until it reached bursting point. The Pavilions Baltard, built between 1854 and 1866, gave the market a new lease of life. However, 100 years later, the market area became congested again, and
the 'belly' of Paris moved out of town to Rungis, just south of the city.
NAPOLEON'S TOMB
In 1861, the architect Visconti designed a dramatic setting for the Emperor's tomb. In the centre of an open crypt the red porphyry sarcophagus was placed on a base of green granite from the Vosges. Visitors ca n view it from the encircling balustrade.
A pensioner's home
At the beginning of his reign, Louis XIV had difficulty in establishing himself on the throne of France, and realised the importance of a strong army. However, because of the appalling conditions faced by wounded soldiers, recruitment was difficult. In order to encourage potential recruits the king decided, in 1670, to found a hospital and pension home for 4,000 invalid ex-soldiers. Work started in 1671 and lasted for five years.
A shining monument
The king then commissioned the young architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart to design a church with a magnificent gilt dome. In 1840, after years of negotiation with the British government, Napoleon's remains were returned to France and officially buried in the Eglise du Dome, and Les Invalides became a symbol of the Emperor's glory.
The Esplanade des Invalides
The best way to approach the Invalides is from the Pont Alexandre III (see p34). The vast esplanade, designed by Robert de Cotte at the beginning of the 18th century, is 500m (547yd) long and 250m (273yd) wide. From here you can enjoy sweeping views of the harmonious ensemble of buildings. A formal garden, surrounded by a dry moat, has 17thand 18th -century bronze heavy guns; beyond it, the impressive doorway,'streets', lined with shops, snack bars, cinemas and restaurants, and with direct access to the metro, covers an area. Large maps are available on each level to direct you to the shops of your choice. On level 1 is a museum: the Nouveau Musee Grevin (see p86), an annexe of the waxworks in the boulevard Montmartre, depicting Paris at the turn of the
20th century.
In the newest part of the complex, beyond the place Carree on level 3, a cultural and commercial area includes an auditorium and a video library, as well as sports facilities and a glass swimming pool.
