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Powered by an insatiable new middle class, who have benefited from the country's post-liberalisation reforms, Mumbai is not yet a city that has really made it - though many Mumbaikers and international commentators would have you think otherwise. In terms of governance and infrastructure, there is still considerable room for improvement. Mumbai may be India's greatest hope, but currently that only applies to a very few: in a city of around 18 million (and it's expected to be the most populous in the world by 2020), there is only one bus for every 1,300 people; 17 public toilets for every one million; and just one civic hospital catering to 7.2 million. Yet, somehow, the city continues to sustain itself, perhaps because, at its heart, Mumbai is an ingenious place.
In the face of rapid expansion, certain peculiarities persist - the bungalows, single-screen cinemas and dabbawalas delivering hot meals - though sadly these are all under constant threat. But there have also been heavy casualties, such as the cotton mills built in the roth century: Visit Mumbai now and you will see how often beauty is to be found in these endangered spaces.
While Bombay was built on tradition, Mumbai is being built on on a hyped-up, frenetic kind of energy. Hopefully, as development only increases, some of this will be directed towards the city itself, allowing it to retain the qualities that fascinated Howard Hodgkin, when he painted his bloody, heady Bombay Sunset.
THE CITY AT A GLANCE
Gateway of India
A colonial symbol of staggering achievement, the Gateway must be seen. Behind its arch, bobbing boats (some are true relics) await to whisk you off to a destination of your choice.
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower
Confiating Moorish, oriental and Florentine styles, this celebrated hotel, which opened over a century ago, is a historical marvel.
Prince of Wales Museum
Crowned by a sparkling white dome, the museum was built in 1914 to commemorate the visit of the Prince of Wales. It is the epitome of Indo-Saracenic splendour.
Regal Cinema
The first of Mumbai's art de co cinemas opened in 1933. It was designed by Charles Stevens and boasts stunning mirror-lined interiors by the Czech artist Karl Schara.
Wellington Fountain, Co/aba Causeway,
T 22021017
Sassoon Dock
Built by and named after Baghdadi Jew David Sassoon, this dock is the fish trading centre for south Mumbai. Its smelly market is a maelstrom of boats and people, with fresh produce arriving every day at 5am.
Co/aba Causeway
Bombay Stock Exchange
Established in 1875, the BSE is the oldest stock exchange in Asia, and is now one of the five biggest in the world - a prominent symbol of India's financial ambitions.
